Why the Roof Is Where RVs Go to Die
An RV roof is a flexible membrane covered in holes — vents, skylights, antennas, A/C units — each one sealed with caulk that the Texas sun is actively destroying. When a seal cracks, water doesn't drip where it enters. It travels along framing, soaks into the ceiling and walls, and shows up as a stain, a soft spot, or a musty smell long after the damage started. By then you're not resealing a vent; you're replacing structure.
What We Check
- Membrane condition — tears, punctures, bubbles, chalking, and hail bruising
- Every seam and seal — front and rear caps, side moldings, and all roof penetrations
- Mounted components — A/C gaskets, vent flanges, skylight domes, antenna mounts
- Soft spots — decking that's already absorbing water underfoot
- Interior evidence — stains, bubbling wallpaper, and discoloration around fixtures
You get photos of everything we find and a written summary — whether or not you have us do the repairs.
After a hailstorm: DFW sits in the middle of hail alley. If your RV was outside during a storm, get the roof inspected even if it looks fine from the ground. Our documentation supports insurance claims, and claims are far easier to file now than after the leak appears.
Repairs We Handle
Re-caulking and sealant replacement, seam repair, patching tears and punctures, replacing vent and skylight assemblies, soft-spot and decking repair, and full membrane replacement when a roof is past saving. We use sealants matched to your roof material — lap sealant on rubber, the right products on fiberglass and aluminum — so repairs last.
Between Inspections
Wash the roof a few times a year, keep tree sap and leaves off it, use covered storage if you have it, and walk the roof (carefully) after any storm. And put a reminder on your calendar: sealant doesn't announce when it fails.