Two Electrical Systems, One Shop That Understands Both
Your RV runs on two separate electrical systems: a 12-volt DC system fed by your batteries, and a 120-volt AC system fed by shore power or a generator. They meet in the middle at your converter and inverter — and that intersection is where most electrical problems live. A general auto shop understands the 12-volt side; an electrician understands the 120-volt side. We work on both, every day.
Signs Your RV Has an Electrical Problem
- Batteries drain overnight even with everything switched off
- Breakers or fuses that trip repeatedly
- Dim or flickering lights, especially while driving
- Appliances that work on shore power but not on battery (or vice versa)
- A converter fan that runs constantly, or a burning smell near the panel
- Outlets that are dead on one side of the rig
What We Repair and Install
Our electrical work covers battery testing and replacement (flooded, AGM, and lithium), converter and inverter diagnosis and replacement, transfer switches, shore power cords and inlets, generator hookups, breaker panels and fuse blocks, interior and exterior lighting, slide-out and leveling motors, tank sensors, and solar charging systems from a single panel to a full off-grid setup.
A note on DIY electrical work: 12-volt mistakes cost you a fuse. 120-volt mistakes can cost you the RV — or worse. Miswired shore power connections are a leading cause of RV fires. If you're not certain, let us take a look first.
How We Diagnose
We start at the symptom and trace the circuit — measuring voltage and current at each point rather than guessing at parts. That approach costs less than "replace and pray," and it means the problem stays fixed. You get a written estimate before any repair begins, and we'll tell you honestly whether a fix is worth doing.